Baby (Ian Stone) and I decided to head out for a short hike on a sunny July day, and ended up in Kanton Uri in Central Switzerland. We hiked for several hours up the mountain, but given we couldn’t find any fresh water along the route we couldn’t go as far as we wanted. After I raced up to a nearby summit we headed back down the mountain, both of us gasping for water.
This is one of my favourite hikes in the Swiss Alps! My mate Andy Passmore and I did it back in 1999 and liked it so much we returned in 2003 to do it again with our friends Ian Summerside and Alex Derksen. Here’s an email that I sent after the earlier ’99 hike:
First weekend back I did an amazing weekend hike in the Berner Oberland (in central Switz). After taking the steepest, hairiest postbus ride in Europe up to the town of Griesalp – the road was 23% (1 in 4) in some parts – Chris, Andy and I attacked the mountain. Climbing steadily through the afternoon we headed up the side of the valley and above the treeline, into the high alpine pastures. As the weather closed in we pitched tent at about 2000m and fell asleep to the sound of alpine cow bells clunking away. (yes Andy, I know you hate them!) Waking up before dawn we were happy to see clear skies and watched a quite magnificent mountain sunrise. Plodding up the steepest trail I have ever attempted, and with the assistance of chains, ropes and ladders, we eventually made it to the highpoint of our walk, the Hohtürli (“high door”) pass. We rested here and soaked up the amazing 360 degree view of mountains above and valleys below. Grabbing a hot meal at the Blumlisalphütte (2840m) before barrelling down the other side of the pass, we walked towards the magnificent Oeschinensee, a turquoise alpine lake wedged in between 3000m peaks on three sides, with glaciers and waterfalls spilling in from all directions. Mmmmm mmmmmmm. Exhausted, we finished to walk in Kandersteg (1200m), toasted our successes with a few beers and then home to rest a while.
The first day hiking was a continuous ascent that started through forests and streams, then continued across open pastures, and finally up onto scree and rock all the way to the top of the Hoehtuerli (“High Door”) pass. The views from the top were outstanding! The Bluemlisalphuette mountain hut operated by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) is at the top of the pass and we stayed there overnight – good hearty food and cosy bunk beds, all at a bargain price.
Andy and I start the ascent.
Sunset looking up towards 3664m Bluemlisalphorn.
Plastic clogs for the hut. Dinner time.
After our continuous ascent the preceding day, the long and easy descent on the second day was a welcome relief! The hike begins with a traverse past the Bluemlisalp massif surrounded by numerous glaciers. Then, after another hour, the beautiful Oeschinensee lake comes into view. With the colour of the water and the contrast to the vegetation, roccks and ice it definitely HAS to be a contender for the most beautiful alpine lake in the Alps!
Sunrise the next morning, looking down towards Kandersteg.
Breathtaking!!! The route down.
(L) Andy soaks up the views. (R) You can actually pick out a team of climbers on the ice wall.
How Swiss! Snow-capped mountains, green fields, cows with bells on…
Oeschinensee – a real gem!
Alex and Ian. My best ‘Deliverance’ impression…
Milan Pathak and I took a week off work and flew down to Rome. Neither of us had been there before and we really wanted to get down there. We checked into a brand new hotel opposite the train station and walked into the heart of the city. Needless to say, we both loved Rome! There’s much to see and do and so much history there. We also enjoyed the food and drink there and ate like kings every night.
The Pantheon. The open domed roof of the Pantheon.
The Roman Forum. The Colosseum.
Outside the Colosseum. Trevi Fountain.
The view from the Vatican Dome. Milan appreciates the male figure.
After several days in Rome we caught the train to Naples (Napoli) and walked down to the docks to catch our ferry. Even though we weren’t in Naples for long we though the place was a dump: unclean and unsafe. We got on our ferry and left Naples with terrific views of Vesuvius. Our destination was the island of Capri, a short distance off the coast. It’s a mountainous island with villas and hotels plastered to its sides and crystal clear water below; the Roman emperors even used to use it as a summer residence. We checked into our hotel in the village, near the top of the funicular, and then went to explore the town. We had a couple of great days exploring Capri – traveling to different parts of the island, doing a few short hikes, and of course enjoying the food!
A few photos from beautiful Capri.
While on Capri, we took a day trip by ferry to Positano, a beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast.
Positano, on the Amalfi Coast.
We also took another day trip around Capri. Our first stop was La Grotta Azzurri (the Blue Grotto), a sea cave that due to its unusual shape at its entrance allows natural light to flow into the cave through the water, giving the cave an iridescent blue glow. Our cruise boat moored outside the cave and we got into one of the small row boats, which then made their way into cavernous interior of the cave through the smallest of opening – so small in face that we had to shoot through between swells! We had a couple of minutes to enjoy the cave, all the while the oarsmen gave their best rendition of the old Italian classic “O Solo Mio”!
The ethereal Blue Grotto on Capri.
Oh yeah a hot tip for young diggers… I found out that the tours of the Blue Grotto only run until 5pm or so. If you make you way down from the road to the grotto entrance you can then go swimming in the cave on your own!!!