Hoehtuerli Hike to Oeschinensee

This is one of my favourite hikes in the Swiss Alps!  My mate Andy Passmore and I did it back in 1999 and liked it so much we returned in 2003 to do it again with our friends Ian Summerside and Alex Derksen.  Here’s an email that I sent after the earlier ’99 hike:

First weekend back I did an amazing weekend hike in the Berner Oberland (in central Switz).  After taking the steepest, hairiest postbus ride in Europe up to the town of Griesalp – the road was 23% (1 in 4) in some parts – Chris, Andy and I attacked the mountain.  Climbing steadily through the afternoon we headed up the side of the valley and above the treeline, into the high alpine pastures.  As the weather closed in we pitched tent at about 2000m and fell asleep to the sound of alpine cow bells clunking away. (yes Andy, I know you hate them!)  Waking up before dawn we were happy to see clear skies and watched a quite magnificent mountain sunrise.  Plodding up the steepest trail I have ever attempted, and with the assistance of chains, ropes and ladders, we eventually made it to the highpoint of our walk, the Hohtürli (“high door”) pass.  We rested here and soaked up the amazing 360 degree view of mountains above and valleys below.  Grabbing a hot meal at the Blumlisalphütte (2840m) before barrelling down the other side of the pass, we walked towards the magnificent Oeschinensee, a turquoise alpine lake wedged in between 3000m peaks on three sides, with glaciers and waterfalls spilling in from all directions.  Mmmmm mmmmmmm.  Exhausted, we finished to walk in Kandersteg (1200m), toasted our successes with a few beers and then home to rest a while.

The first day hiking was a continuous ascent that started through forests and streams, then continued across open pastures, and finally up onto scree and rock all the way to the top of the Hoehtuerli (“High Door”) pass.  The views from the top were outstanding!  The Bluemlisalphuette mountain hut operated by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) is at the top of the pass and we stayed there overnight – good hearty food and cosy bunk beds, all at a bargain price.

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Andy and I start the ascent.

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Sunset looking up towards 3664m Bluemlisalphorn.

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Plastic clogs for the hut.                         Dinner time.

After our continuous ascent the preceding day, the long and easy descent on the second day was a welcome relief!  The hike begins with a traverse past the Bluemlisalp massif surrounded by numerous glaciers.  Then, after another hour, the beautiful Oeschinensee lake comes into view.  With the colour of the water and the contrast to the vegetation, roccks and ice it definitely HAS to be a contender for the most beautiful alpine lake in the Alps!

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Sunrise the next morning, looking down towards Kandersteg.

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Breathtaking!!!                                       The route down.

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(L) Andy soaks up the views.  (R) You can actually pick out a team of climbers on the ice wall.

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How Swiss!  Snow-capped mountains, green fields, cows with bells on…

 

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Oeschinensee – a real gem!

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Alex and Ian.                                          My best ‘Deliverance’ impression…

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