Day 119: Kashgar Impressions
I’ve been in China for several days now, and I have to admit it’s been OK so far. I was a bit apprehentious about coming back here since my first trip back in 2001. In Kyrgyzstan I heard my fair share of China horror stories from backpackers heading west, and I wasn’t looking forward, among other things, to the nightmarish rugby scrums at bus and train ticket offices, filthy toilets and bathrooms, pushy and rude Chinese, everyone spitting everywhere, and restaurant conditions that automatically get your stomach churning. But, since I checked in to the inappropriately named "Seman Hotel" (a classic, dog-eared and former grand hotel), it’s been so far so good – sort of.
Kashgar is a pleasant enough place. Anywhere else this would be considered a small city, but in China this is nothing more than a town. But the Chinese have done their best to make it as Chinese as possible – i.e. fuck it up. The ethic Uighur here are distinct from the Han Chinese in every way from their looks (Central Asian), their language (Turkic, written in Arabic script) and their religion (Muslim). They are also fiercely proud of their hertiage, and will often make the distinction that they are not Chinese (I was also pleasantly pleased to hear that there is still a strong independence movement in Xinjiang). The Chinese government have done their best to dilute the Uighur people here, and have for the past few decades urged Han Chinese to "Go West", and the two races are probably 50-50 these days in Kashgar (although the Han Chinese are said to get the lion’s share of the economic pie). On the up side, Ramadan hasn’t been so hard to tolerate here…
China has also pumped billions of yuan into the region. Once again, the up-side are things like great roads. On the down-side, Kashgar now looks and for the most part feels like any other Chinese city. Brand new, wide, tree-lined streets strip all the atmosphere out of the place, displacing the old city centre along the way. All in the name of "progress" I’ve been told (yes Andy, I’ve actually heard it said many times!). There are only a few places now you can delve into the old mud brick parts of the city and see the traditional Uighur life, and some of those you have to pay a ridiculous 30 yuan for the privilege!
One fascinating experience was the Sunday Livestock Market, held every Sunday for generations on the eastern outskirts of town. All morning long trucksloads full of sheep, goats, cattle and donkeys rumble in, and local shepherds drive their flocks in from nearby farms. They treat the animals terribly by Western standards, but it was still intreresting to see the trades take place. Sellers primp and prepare their animals, giving them a last brush or a shear. Buyers check out the merchandise, inspecting the quality of the goods. And then the dealing begins! Sometimes violent and always heated, the two parties discuss and argue the trade until the price is agreed, and it’s settled with a good old-fashioned handshake (and witnessed by tens of people!).
Unfortunately, the famous Sunday Market was a bit of a let-down. This is the market in the region to find all the touristy souvenirs, clothes, hats, and everything else a person here could ever want and need (including a street-side shave!). Once again though Chinese dabbling has ruined it: it’s housed under a soul-less tin shed roof and everything is neat and orderly into categorized rows.
A few shots from the Kashgar market.
You can’t beat a big Chairman Mao statue!
For the last couple of days I’ve been out along the southern edge of the great Taklamakan Desert where the Silk Road route once passed – not much left of it now though! I wasn’t able to find any other travelers interested in joining me for a tour (+ camel ride + sleep in the dunes) so I was stuck catching public transport along the highway. I traveled through Yarkant, where the Uighur culture was far more visible than Kashgar, and I got to see a little bit of the flat and featureless desert expanses. I ended the day in Karghilik (also called Yecheng, depends which language), where the road south into Tibet turns off. Karghilik had NOTHING going for it and so I got out of there asap this morning. I fly out of Kashgar for Urumqi this evening. Next stop: Turpan, another formerly famous Silk Road town, this time north of the desert.
